This list below seems long but do not be daunted. Most of what you need you probably already have. I've been wordy about some of it to help you make decisions. There are many places to get your supplies; a few places include Blicks (art store in Beaverton), Michaels (bring your coupons), or Amazon (have it shipped to your door.) As another option, you can pay a small materials fee ($10) and I will supply you with paper, a paint tray for in class, and other things you need to get you started. If you already own paints and don't want to get new ones, that is fine. Bring what you have to our class and we'll see how it works. 

Basic materials for class:

1. Paper: The most important item on this list. The right paper is EVERYTHING. Two full sheets (22” X 30”) of #140 lb. Cold Press watercolor paper (NOT cold press rough or hot press) by Arches, Fabriano, or any other professional grade. We will paint on quarter sheets (11” x 15”) Okay to get WC paper in “block” form but make sure to get minimum 10” x 14” size. Arches sells blocks of 20 sheets to various sizes.

2. Thick Board (water-resistant on one side at least) to tape your paper to for support. 13” x 19” inches is ideal. (Available for purchase in class for $5.) Not needed if you’re working off a block.

3. Palette with lid. A good size rectangular plastic palette with paint wells around the outside and a good size mixing area in the inside. The palette should measure about 10” x 16” and contain at least 18 wells. There are various manufactures of these palettes, but they are all around the same size/configuration/price. We use John Pike WC Palettes with 18 wells in class.

4. Paint: Student or professional grade (I highly recommend using professional watercolors) tube watercolor paint such as M. Graham, Daniel Smith, Schminke, Holbein, Winsor Newton. My favorite is M. Graham because it is made with honey and has a special vibrancy and glow. We use M. Graham in our paint trays in class.  

5. Colors: Azo Yellow, Gamboge, Naphthol Red, Quinacridone Rose, Maroon Perylene, Dioxizine Purple, Ultramarine Blue, Phthalo Blue, Cerulean Blue, Phthalo Green, Sap Green, Permanent Pale Green, Nickel Quinacridone Gold (NQ Gold), Burnt Sienna, Raw Sienna, Peyne’s Gray. All my colors are M. Graham but if you have other manufacturers paint, use what you have. Okay to mix manufacturers.

6. Correction color: Little jar of Dr. PH Martin’s Bleed-Proof White, and/or White Gouache

7. A few Paint Brushes: Suggested sizes Round #8 and #12. I suggest a combination natural and synthetic hair. Don’t go too cheap! This size brush is a real workhorse. A small round #4 or #6. If you want a recommendation, Black Velvet brand is nice. My favorite is the Connoisseur brand. Get round #6 or #8 size, model #357 and a Connoisseur Risslon oval wash (i.e., “cat’s tongue”) ¾” size, model #046.

8. Pencil. A small graphite drawing pencil (can simply be a soft Ticonderoga office pencil)

9. Eraser. Important to get a Kneaded Eraser or Staedtler Mars so as not to damage your good paper! I use Faber-Castell Kneadable Erasers. (excellent and inexpensive)

10. Tape: ½ to 1” wide 3M blue painter’s tape or any other masking tape that can keep out water but will not harm the watercolor paper when pulling off (only if you want straight edges around your painting when you’re done.)

11. One big round straw

12. Lifting tools: A roll of absorbent kitchen paper towels

13. Old washcloths and towels for wipe up.

14. Water container (an old yoghurt or cottage cheese container is perfect).

15. Spray bottle that gives a nice mist.

Extras / Nice to have but not essential:

1. WC Art journal/Sketchbook: Lots of sizes to choose from, just don’t skimp on weight of paper otherwise you defeat yourself (i.e., don’t go less than #90 lb.) I love the Strathmore “Windpower Watercolor, Cold Press & Acid Free” kind (red cover) and are 9” x 12” in size and contain 15 sheets at 140lbs per sheet weight.  If you go with a different brand, look for “140 lb cold press” as the quality of the paper is everything...poor paper quality will compromise your results.

2. Old scrub brush for lifting, or buy a couple of “scrubbers.” Not expensive.

3. Optional --Tracing Paper and Graphite Paper. One is to capture an image by seeing through the tracing paper. The graphite paper is essentially carbon paper to transfer from your source to your paper when you don’t have a light table or when you are working on watercolor blocks.

4. A box of Mr. Clean (original) Magic Erasers again for lifting.

5. Optional--Masking fluid: I’m not a huge fan of this type of product or process, but it definitely has its uses. This is totally optional, but if you like this way of painting, Winsor Newton Masking Fluid or Pebeo Drawing Gum works well. You’ll need to have some inexpensive brushes and toothpicks to use with the miskit so as not to ruin your good WC brushes.

6. One stick of white conte crayon

7. Variety of waterproof (i.e., “permanent”) pens. Sharpies are great and truly permanent but are limited in size options. If getting Sharpies, get “Fine” and “Ultra Fine.” Other options include Pigma Micron, Staedtler, and Faber-Castell Pitt. Okay to use inks colors in addition to black. Consider getting a 6-pack of small to medium sized pens by Sakura Pigma Micron.

8. Ruler or some sort of straight edge

9. Apron (some of the paints are staining.)

10. Art bag to put everything in.

Instructor will Bring or make available at website:

• Inspiration piece or photo reference for our project

• Samples of completed project

• Tracing for the drawing of the subject

• Light table for tracing the drawing

• Materials for use in class for a small fee, including professional paints and paper.